Hebron - one of my favorite places we visited, and not just because I had reported on the site (see an earlier post). It was a favorite because this was one of the days where we faced reality, though as tourists, but still we bore witness to a situation and a life experience that many tourists would not choose to see.
After our time at the Ibrahimi Mosque, we were met by two women who are part of the Peacemakers Team. They work in conjunction with the Hebron Rehabilitation Committee to protect and promote justice in a city that has been fraught with turmoil, though in a different manner than the turmoil of Gaza. Hebron is located just twenty miles south of Jerusalem, in the West Bank/Palestine. Because we came to Hebron from Bethlehem, we didn't have to go through any checkpoints.
Though I will try and be brief about the situation, I would encourage you to seek out a history of Hebron (and though I normally don't condone internet resources, Wikipedia is actually fairly good on this subject). After the Six Days War in 1967, the West Bank was returned from Jordan control to Israel. Though a settlement was established on the outskirts of Hebron, around 1980 a small group of families decided to re-establish permanent residence within the city itself. Now, pocketed throughout the central highway of the city are mini-settlements that have set up control over the city. The Palestinian residents who have not emigrated elsewhere are challenged to maintain their lifestyles. There are numerous checkpoints throughout the city for Palestinian people to go through in order to get across town. Even to cross the main highway, what should take only about two minutes now requires at least an hour of a person's time - to go around the road blocks, go through the checkpoints, and avoid the wrath of some of the settlers. Many of the Hebron settlers are notorious for vicious acts against the Palestinians in an effort to drive them out of the city, including throwing trash, rusty nails, and other things on the heads of the Palestinians, including children on their way to school.
What the Peacemakers Team does often is accompany children on their way to school, in part to be a presence of peace (and ward off the flying debris), as well as to assist the children through the checkpoints they must go through on foot to get to school. Hebron Rehabilitation Committee is dedicated to rebuilding Hebron in hopes of bringing Palestinian families back to their homes. Of the violent acts endured and damaging buildings, especially in "Old Hebron", such things as houses being burned, trees being cut down, and other unspeakable acts, HRC is slowly working through dilapidated structures that need new walls, foundations, and fresh paint. From the 1950's to the 1990's, almost 96% of the Palestinian families had moved out of Hebron. WIth the help of HRC, nearly 50% have returned.
We went on a walking tour through Old Hebron with a leader of HRC (I apologize profusely for forgetting his name at the moment, but he was fantastic). He showed us some of the damages that have occurred because of the settlements and settlers, as well as a plethora of sites that HRC has revitalized. We saw blocked streets and the immense challenges the people of Hebron face on daily basis. We walked down what used to be a vibrant, bustling market where now, only a few shops remain open. Our Peacemaker guides were very insistent that we have a chance to visit these shops and provide a chance for business since there is not much by way of tourism in Hebron these days. We were very thankful to be able to talk with those shopowners as well as support their business financially (scarves are fantabulous).
The picture I posted a couple of days ago, of the street in Hebron - the wire/mesh above the street was installed as a way to help protect the people from the things being thrown by the settlers. Though this has not deterred the settlers, and has increased more creative objects being thrown (like rusty nails and needles), it does provide a little protection. This is another photo, taken from underneath the mesh.
Because of the extremist actions taken by the Israeli settlers who are doing everything they can to completely take over the city, and the spirit of the Palestinians to remain where they are, where they belong, Hebron is often in the news for acts of violence and severe tension. In fact, in December 2008 there were a few days of heightened violence, and I was informed there was a chance we might not get to Hebron. But, as we saw with going north to Caesarea Philippi and Dan, our group was very blessed to have recognized the importance of our presence in this place despite the goings on.
I ask for your continued prayers for the city of Hebron. Please, do some of your own research to find out more.
Scripture for Today: Genesis 17:1-7, 15-16; Romans 4:13-25; Psalm 22:23-31, Mark 8:31-38
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